Week 9 Blog : The Wave

So basically for my final project me and Pepper  did a paper mache  wave to represent the significance of surfing. Here is some of my essay on the project. Hope you enjoy! :)

When first entering the class, I didn’t know much about surfing. I can honestly say I knew nothing but the basics. After being in the class, I learned so much more than expected.  It started with the Polynesian roots, to the evolution of music and finally to surfing being one of the biggest industries in the world.  Surfing is a sport that captivated the world.  It left many in awe and yearning to be out in the waves.  For many, surfing is their paradise lost. They get to caught up in the fame and ego that they disregard the bigger picture.  Out of all the articles I have read this quarter, there is one that always stayed with me and helped inspire the final project. The article is called “Bustin’ Down the Door” by Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew.  His take on the ocean really made me think about what surfing is all about.

Surfing has become a massive culture as time went on.  It contains it’s own sound, movies, music, clothing, people, ect.  It has taken over the world and surfers can be found everywhere.  When looking at how much it has evolved, it makes me wonder how much people appreciate where it came from. A lot of surfers are caught up in the competition and the industry is hung up on the financial gain.  If one really thinks about it, what is surfing all about?  In my opinion, if you get back to the core of it, you will surely find it.  If a person takes away the music, the clothes, competition, ego, and anything else from the modern age, they will see what is left; the board and the ocean.  The ancestors of surfing were not thinking about how big surfing will come or how much money the corporations will make. They were out there just enjoying the waves the ocean provides.  Surfing, to me, is one of the sports were you can have a connection with nature unlike any other. Surfing gives you this connection to the ocean that you can hardly get from any other sports. It is the one time where the ocean and the surfer can become one while the surfer is riding the waves. After reading Rabbit’s article, it did help put that into perspective.  He discusses how people perceive surfing and a wave differently.  

Rabbit states, “ Varying levels of consciousness are displayed whilst surfing; for example, some people don’t care to make any explanations in relation to what a wave represents, but rather just take it all for granted, while others see waves as the end result of all significant elements of energy… another person to a wave as being a direct link to his or her concept of God” (“Bustin’ Down the Door”).   Everyone sees surfing differently and has their concept of what a wave represents.  Whether a surfer sees a wave as their connection with the divine or just water passing them by, they can all agree that the feeling of being in the ocean is unlike any other.  I would think for all surfers, it is to some extent their euphoria.  When they’re out on a wave, I bet the last thing on their minds is the industry, music or clothing. They are just thinking about being out there, and doing what they love.  I would also agree with Rabbit and say most non-surfers will only see surfing as a physical expression rather than a mental one.  Non-surfers just won’t fully grasp the feeling of being out in the ocean until they try it.  Me being a spiritual person, I can understand (to an extent) the feeling they must feel out there. Connection with nature is unlike any other. It takes you back to your roots and reminds you of what many have been neglecting.  I would say that this appreciation for the ocean is the main root of the “Aesthetics of Surfing”.

For the project, my partner and I decided to do paper mache waves. We chose this to represent the main essence of surfing.  We wanted to show the importance of the ocean and the main focus that the surfers should not forget. Appreciate the ocean and the nature around you. Also to show that surfing is more than just what the industry perceives it as. It is a connection with nature many surfers choose to make and also just to enjoy the time you have with Mother Ocean.

The past generations cared more about being out amongst the waves more than anything else.  

I’m not saying that the music and the rest of the culture is irrelevant to what surfing is today because that is untrue. Everything that has lead up to now shaped what surfing has become. I enjoy the rest of the surf culture as well. I loved learning about all the music and background of surfing because it showed me that the surfing culture was more complex than I had ever imagined. I enjoyed taking this class and learning so much more about surfing!!  Thanks Trey for teaching us so much and opening my eyes to the bigger picture of surfing! Also on a side note, I loved everyone elses projects!! Good job guys! :)