In the article “The Transformation of Tom Stone”, we get to hear the story of how a man essentially saved himself through surfing. Tom Stone had a very troubled beginning, he was in trouble with the law and was consumed by the drugs and partying. While he was in the process of getting his life together, he realized his love of surfing. One wave was all it took, and he was hooked. I found it rather impressive that not only did he become an avid surfer, but he also emphasized the importance of safety in the water. He truly believes in the power of surfing and its potential to help people find themselves.
The other article “Waves of Resistance” was a really good article. This article delved deeper into the roots of surfing and how the annexation of Hawaii had a huge impact on Hawaiian surfing culture.
The readings for this week were very interesting. Going into this class, I was interested in learning about surfing, but I am realizing that there is so much more history behind this sport. I am very interested in learning that history.
Vanessa -
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you're enjoying the readings and have been surprised by the many facets that comprise 'surf history'. It's important to note that when referencing the Stone profile, it was also his success with surfing that initially enabled that destructive path. There are a lot of potentially damaging distractions that inherently remain on the fringes of surf culture (sex, drugs, rock n' roll, et al), but it was Stone's rededication to the simple act itself - that's when it only took one wave, to reignite that forgotten, dormant passion - that put him back on the path to becoming a master shaper and indigenous cultural ambassador. I'm glad you enjoyed that article and am stoked that you will have the opportunity to meet him and see him shape live at the Salt of the Earth event.