Bustin Down the Door

Rabbit's first person narrative on his meditative approach to surfing on the North Shore completely entranced me. He's absolutely right when he says that it is virtually impossible for a non surfer to view it as anything other than a physical expression. Being a non surfer myself I can say with one hundred percent certainty that when I go hang out at the lighthouse watching everyone at the Lane that I can not begin to comprehend what it would be like to ride those waves because I've just never experienced anything like that before. I do skimboard and I've been body surfing before, as I grew up here in Santa Cruz, but I still feel like there's always going to be a disconnect for me. Reading those few paragraphs really enticed me to want to get a board and get out in the water.